the wave,this little miracle...
The wave is a phenomenon that calls on several meteorological and geographical criteria.
For a wave to be created, the ocean floor must allow the swell to reach the shore, so a certain depth is necessary.
The coast must be exposed to the swells to capture the ocean’s energy, ready to be transformed into a breaker.
The wind also plays a major role, but not in the way you might imagine: a total absence of wind is ideal to let the sea smooth out and express itself perfectly. The onshore wind, otherwise known as the ‘off wind’, can be used to dig into the waves with interesting results. The worst wind will be a sea wind, otherwise known as the ‘off shore wind’, which breaks up the beautiful wave lines.
The good news is that whatever the water, small waves or perfect waves, it’s always possible to have fun, especially when you’re just starting out.
Surfing at Penhors, in the Bay of Audierne
Surfing at Penhors - Pouldreuzic














